Buenos Aires Travel Guide

Practical guide to Buenos Aires - safety tips, neighborhoods, transport, and what makes Argentina’s capital truly special

Fernando

December 8, 2025 · 14 min read

#Travel #South-America #Argentina #Buenos-Aires

Buenos Aires exists in perpetual contradiction—a European city that pulses with Latin American passion, where grand boulevards meet cobblestone alleyways, where tango’s melancholy coexists with football’s unbridled joy. This is the Paris of South America that somehow feels more Italian, a place where dinner starts at 10 PM and the streets hum with conversation until dawn.

When to Visit Buenos Aires #

The Shoulder Seasons Shine #

Spring (September-November) brings Buenos Aires to life in violet hues. Jacaranda trees line the streets in full bloom, temperatures hover around a comfortable 20-25°C, and the Buenos Aires International Jazz Festival fills the air with music. This is when locals return to outdoor cafés and the city shakes off winter’s chill with renewed energy.

Fall (March-May) rivals spring as the ideal time. You’ll encounter 40% less rain than January, fewer crowds, and those long golden afternoons that seem designed for café culture. March through May offers gentle temperatures and the kind of weather that encourages exploration without exhaustion.

Summer (December-February) transforms the city into a humid, occasionally thunderstorm-prone environment. But here’s the counterintuitive advantage: most porteños (Buenos Aires locals) flee to the beaches, leaving reduced traffic and a different kind of authenticity. If you can handle heat and humidity, you’ll find a Buenos Aires that belongs more to those who stayed behind.

Winter (June-August) sees temperatures drop to 8-16°C and tourist numbers decline correspondingly. Flights and accommodations often cost 20-30% less than summer. Buenos Aires’ café culture becomes even cozier when it’s cold outside—there’s something romantic about ducking into a warm café when the streets are grey and quiet.

How Much Time You Need #

Plan for at least 4-5 days to experience the city’s distinct neighborhoods, food culture, and tango scene properly. A week gives you time to develop a rhythm, to find your favorite café, to venture beyond the tourist circuit into neighborhoods that reveal Buenos Aires’ true character.

Getting Around #

The SUBE Card System #

Since Argentina’s currency situation stabilized in 2025, navigating Buenos Aires’ public transportation has become more straightforward. The SUBE card is your golden ticket to the city’s buses, trains, and subway system.

The Basics:

Cost: AR$1,500 (roughly US$1.40) for the card itself
Where to buy: Subway stations (the Obelisco station tends to have better stock), lottery shops, Correo Argentino post offices, and many kioscos (corner shops)
Current fares: Buses cost 371-509 ARS (around $0.40-0.50), subway rides cost about 757 ARS (around $0.80)
2025 update: You can now pay for subway rides with contactless credit cards or your phone, though buses still require the SUBE card

Pro tip: Get your SUBE card early in your trip. There have been periodic shortages, so don’t wait until you desperately need one at a bus stop.

Transportation Options #

The Subte (Metro): Clean, efficient, and the fastest way to traverse the city. The system is straightforward with clearly marked lines. Generally safe during daylight hours, though keep belongings secure during rush hours when pickpockets operate.

Buses (Colectivos): An extensive network that reaches everywhere, but requires some local knowledge. Google Maps works reasonably well for planning routes. Buses don’t announce stops, so track your progress on the map to know when to press the stop button.

Walking: Many neighborhoods are highly walkable, and this is truly the best way to discover Buenos Aires’ character—the street art transforming entire buildings, corner cafés with perfect cortados, architectural details you’d miss from a vehicle.

Taxis and Rideshare: Uber, Cabify, and DiDi all operate reliably. They’re generally safer and more transparent than street taxis. Cabify is fully legal with rigorous driver requirements; Uber exists in a legal grey zone but functions effectively. Both work well for getting around.

Where to Stay #

Palermo: The Default Choice #

Palermo is where most first-time visitors stay, and for good reason. This sprawling neighborhood encompasses several sub-neighborhoods (Palermo Soho, Palermo Hollywood, Palermo Viejo) and serves as the epicenter of Buenos Aires’ restaurant, café, and nightlife scene. It’s safe, accessible, and offers something for everyone—from boutique shopping to street art to the Michelin-recognized restaurants that put Buenos Aires on the global culinary map.

Neighboring areas like Colegiales, Villa Crespo, and Chacarita offer similar vibes with slightly lower prices and fewer tourists. These are where young porteños actually live.

Recoleta: Old World Elegance #

Recoleta exudes refinement with its wide boulevards, Parisian-style architecture, and upscale boutiques. This is Buenos Aires at its most European—the neighborhood where wealthy cattle ranch owners built French-influenced mansions in the early 20th century. It’s centrally located, extremely safe, and home to the famous Recoleta Cemetery and countless cultural attractions. Stay here if you want to feel transported to a more elegant era.

San Telmo: Bohemian Authenticity #

San Telmo’s cobblestone streets, colonial architecture, and Sunday antique market create an atmosphere unlike anywhere else in the city. This is Buenos Aires at its most authentic—the oldest residential neighborhood with grit, character, and artistic soul. The Sunday flea market in Plaza Dorrego transforms the neighborhood into a carnival of artisans, street performers, and tango dancers. It’s less polished than Palermo or Recoleta, and you should exercise more caution at night, but it offers genuine porteño character.

Puerto Madero: Modern and Safe #

Buenos Aires’ modern face—a revitalized Puerto Madero waterfront district with sleek high-rises, upscale restaurants, and wide pedestrian walkways along converted docks. It’s one of the safest areas in the city, perfect for those prioritizing security and modern amenities. The trade-off: it lacks the soul and character of older neighborhoods. Think of it as Buenos Aires’ attempt at being Dubai—impressive but somewhat sterile.

What to Do #

Essential Buenos Aires Experiences #

Tango in Its Natural Habitat: Tourist tango shows have their place, but the real magic happens at local milongas (dance halls). La Viruta offers beginner lessons followed by social dancing—a genuine entry point into what moves this city’s soul. Even if you don’t dance, watching locals who’ve practiced for decades navigate the floor is mesmerizing.

Football as Religion: In Argentina, football isn’t sport—it’s identity, passion, tribalism woven into daily life. Attending a match at La Bombonera (Boca Juniors) or El Monumental (River Plate) offers a window into what truly moves porteños. The energy is electric, occasionally intimidating, and absolutely unforgettable. This is where the city’s heart beats loudest.

Sunday at San Telmo Market: Plaza Dorrego transforms every Sunday into a sprawling fair of artisans, street performers, tango dancers, and antique vendors. Arrive late morning, wander slowly, and let yourself get lost in the carnival atmosphere. This is Buenos Aires at its most photogenic and authentic.

Teatro Colón: One of the world’s finest opera houses, over a century old with legendary acoustics. Take a guided tour even if you don’t catch a performance—the architecture alone, the belle époque grandeur, justifies the visit. This is where Buenos Aires’ European aspirations crystallized into something truly magnificent.

Recoleta Cemetery: This isn’t a morbid attraction but an outdoor museum of ornate mausoleums, tree-lined paths, and Argentine history etched in marble. Eva Perón’s tomb draws crowds, but wandering the labyrinthine paths reveals countless stories—presidents, poets, military heroes, socialites, all resting in architectural splendor. Gothic, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, neo-classical—it’s all here.

Hidden Gems Worth Seeking #

Tigre Delta: A 40-minute train ride from Retiro station delivers you to a serene region of tree-lined waterways and houses accessible only by boat. At 5,405 square miles, it’s one of the world’s largest river deltas and one of the only major ones that doesn’t empty into a sea or ocean. It’s the Amazon-esque nature escape you didn’t expect to find so close to a major city.

Evita Museum: For those interested in understanding Eva Perón beyond the mythology, this museum in a 1923 Palermo mansion offers context and nuance. Collections from her wardrobe—dresses, shoes, handbags, hats—alongside the story of a woman who remains Argentina’s most iconic and controversial figure.

El Ateneo Grand Splendid: Repeatedly named the most beautiful bookstore on Earth, this converted 1920s theater in Recoleta now houses books where there were once opera seats. The stage is now a café where you can drink coffee in what used to be the orchestra pit. It’s impossible to visit and not leave with a bag of books.

La Boca’s Caminito: Visit during daylight hours to see the vividly painted houses and street tango performances. Stay within the tourist zone with its police presence, keep your phone tucked away, and treat it as a brief, colorful experience rather than a lingering exploration. Beautiful for photographs, but understand it’s a carefully maintained tourist attraction rather than how locals actually live.

Where to Eat #

Understanding Buenos Aires Food Culture #

Buenos Aires exists at the intersection of Italian immigration and Argentine beef culture, with a café tradition that rivals Europe’s finest cities. Eating here isn’t just sustenance—it’s ritual, celebration, and daily pleasure. The city holds Michelin stars, appears on World’s Best Restaurant lists, yet maintains neighborhood parrillas where locals have eaten for generations.

The Parrilla Experience #

Parrillas (steakhouses) serve the parrillada—a mixed grill showcasing various beef cuts, sausages, and organ meats cooked over an open flame. This is Argentina’s culinary soul.

Don Julio in Palermo ranks among the world’s best restaurants (nominated for the World’s 50 Best) and holds a Michelin star plus green star for sustainability. The beef is exceptional, sourced from trusted local producers and aged in their in-house butchery. Reservations are essential—you can book 90 days in advance, and slots fill fast.

La Cabrera, also in Palermo, offers generous portions and an atmosphere that balances upscale quality with neighborhood warmth. Arrive between 6:30-8 PM for their early bird 40% discount.

Parrilla Peña near Recoleta provides local vibes and premium quality without the Palermo crowds.

Cabaña Las Lilas in Puerto Madero holds a Michelin rating and offers waterfront dining—splurge-worthy if your budget allows.

At any parrilla, don’t skip the chimichurri—the garlicky sauce that elevates every bite of perfectly grilled meat.

Street Food and Quick Bites #

Choripán is Argentina’s answer to the hot dog, but infinitely better—grilled chorizo in crusty bread, slathered in chimichurri. You’ll find vendors at parks, markets, and outside football stadiums. This is what locals grab after a match when hunger strikes and sophistication can wait.

Empanadas vary by region and filling. In Buenos Aires, try carne (beef), jamón y queso (ham and cheese), and humita (corn). El Sanjuanino (locations in Recoleta, Barrio Norte, and Cañitas) serves what many consider the city’s best—house specialty empanadas salteñas inspired by northwestern Salta province, around $2.50 USD each.

Medialunas are delicate, vanilla-scented croissants perfect for breakfast alongside café con leche or mate. Every café serves them, but quality varies dramatically.

Café Culture and Sweet Indulgences #

Buenos Aires’ historic cafés notables are living monuments. Café Tortoni (established 1858) serves churros and hot chocolate in Parisian grandeur where Jorge Luis Borges and Carlos Gardel once sat. Las Violetas offers 1920s elegance and superb pastries in Almagro. La Biela sits perfectly positioned across from Recoleta Cemetery for post-sightseeing reflection.

For modern specialty coffee, Lattente (locations in Belgrano and Palermo) offers excellent coffee and pastries filled with dulce de leche in spaces perfect for both work and leisure.

Gelato rivals Italy’s best. After Italy, Buenos Aires is home to some of the world’s finest ice cream. Cadore and Rapa Nui perfect flavors like dulce de leche granizado. After a day of walking Buenos Aires’ streets, there’s nothing quite like gelato eaten while watching street life unfold.

Alfajores—two soft cookies sandwiched with dulce de leche and covered in chocolate—are Argentina’s most national candy. Havanna cafés throughout the city serve various versions, but they’re all addictive.

Beyond Beef #

Buenos Aires has exploded with culinary diversity. The Italian heritage means exceptional pasta and pizza—Pizzeria Banchero and El Cuartito serve legendary pies. The city’s ingredient-driven kitchens in Chacarita, neighborhood bistros in Belgrano, and innovative restaurants throughout Palermo prove you don’t have to limit yourself to steakhouses. Time Out Buenos Aires’ 2025 restaurant guide highlights the vibrant diversity across the city’s barrios.

🔒 Safety & Common Sense Tips #

Buenos Aires is safe for tourists who exercise normal urban awareness. The US State Department rates Argentina as “Level 1: Exercise Normal Precautions”—their lowest risk level. Over 2 million international tourists visited from January to September 2023, with most experiencing problem-free trips.

What to Keep in Mind:

Phone awareness matters: Don’t use your phone on public transport or while waiting at bus stops, especially near train stations. Pickpockets target distracted tourists in crowded areas, on the subway, and at tourist attractions.

Some neighborhoods need caution: Don’t visit La Boca after sunset—during daylight, stay within the tourist zone of El Caminito where police are present. Avoid areas around Retiro, Constitución, and Once train stations, particularly at night. These neighborhoods have higher crime rates and little reason for tourists to explore them.

The safe neighborhoods: Palermo, Recoleta, and Puerto Madero are consistently safe, even at night. San Telmo is generally safe but requires more awareness after dark.

Street smarts: Keep bags closed and in front of you in crowded places. Don’t flash expensive jewelry or cameras unnecessarily. Use registered taxis or rideshares rather than street hails. Trust your instincts—if something feels off, it probably is.

Tourist police (Policía de Turismo) are helpful and often speak English. Most crime tourists encounter is petty theft—pickpocketing and bag snatching in tourist areas. Violent crime is concentrated in outer neighborhoods visitors rarely see.

The vast majority of travelers have wonderful, incident-free experiences. Common sense and basic urban awareness are your best protection.

💡 Practical Info #

Money & Currency (2025 Update):

Argentina’s currency situation stabilized in April 2025 when restrictions were removed
Credit/debit cards now give favorable MEP rates matching the former “blue dollar”—this is now the most convenient option
Still bring some crisp US$100 bills; many merchants offer 10-15% discounts for cash
Perfect, clean bills get best exchange rates; avoid torn, wrinkled, or marked bills
If exchanging cash, use official ENVIARg exchange offices (green-branded) on Calle Florida
Check daily rates on La Nación’s website before major exchanges

Language:

Spanish (specifically Rioplatense Spanish with Italian-influenced intonation) is primary
English spoken in tourist areas and upscale establishments; less so in neighborhood cafés
Learn basics: “Gracias,” “Por favor,” “La cuenta, por favor,” “¿Cuánto cuesta?”
Google Translate’s offline Spanish dictionary is invaluable
Locals appreciate any attempt at Spanish

Communication & Connectivity:

Most hotels, cafés, restaurants offer WiFi
Buy local SIM cards at airport or kioscos—major carriers: Claro, Movistar, Personal
WhatsApp is ubiquitous for communication
Coverage in central Buenos Aires is excellent

Useful Apps:

Google Maps (navigation and transit directions)
Uber/Cabify/DiDi (rides)
Google Translate (offline dictionary)
PedidosYa/Rappi (food delivery)

Tipping & Dining Culture:

Restaurants: 10% standard, often not included
Argentines eat late—dinner starts 9-10 PM, restaurants fill up around 10 PM
Most restaurants serve food until midnight or later; some parrillas until 2-3 AM
Lunch typically 1-3 PM

Electricity & Practical Notes:

Type C and I plugs; 220V—bring appropriate adapters
Tap water safe to drink in Buenos Aires
Some shops close midday (1-4 PM siesta), less common in tourist areas

Weather Preparation:

Pack layers—temperatures can fluctuate
Bring umbrella (November is rainiest month)
Comfortable walking shoes essential
Sunscreen and sunglasses for summer months

Opening Hours:

Shops: Generally 10 AM-8 PM, some close for siesta
Restaurants: Lunch 12-3 PM, Dinner 8 PM-midnight (or later)
Museums: Usually 10 AM-6 PM, often closed Mondays
Cafés: Many open early (7-8 AM) and stay open late

🧭 Final Thoughts #

Buenos Aires doesn’t reveal itself in a single visit. It’s a city of layers—European sophistication built atop indigenous land, Italian food culture infused with Argentine beef, tango’s melancholy woven through football’s ecstasy. You’ll discover contradictions at every turn: formality and warmth, decay and renewal, tradition and innovation existing side by side.

What makes Buenos Aires special isn’t any single attraction or experience. It’s the accumulation of small moments: a perfect cortado at a neighborhood café, the way sunlight hits colonial buildings in San Telmo, the sound of tango drifting from an open doorway, the taste of impossibly good beef, the kindness of strangers who want you to love their city as much as they do.

The best discoveries here aren’t planned—they’re stumbled upon during a walk that was supposed to last twenty minutes but stretched into three hours because the streets kept offering one more reason to continue. This is a city that will frustrate you with its inefficiencies and seduce you with its soul.

Come with flexible expectations and an appetite for immersion. Buenos Aires rewards those who slow down, who linger, who allow the city to unfold at its own pace. You’ll find yourself planning your return before you’ve even left.

Fernando Hermida